Place du Tertre: Artists, Cafés and the ‘Bistro’ Legend

Place du Tertre is a square in Paris’s 18th arrondissement, near the summit of the elevated Montmartre quarter. Just a few streets from the Basilica of the Sacré Cœur and the Lapin Agile cabaret, it is known for the artists who display and sell their work there.

If you are choosing what to see near Sacré Cœur, start by looking at the artwork arranged around the square. The artists sell their pieces directly, so you can admire what is on display and negotiate if something catches your eye. The source notes that offering cash can usually lead to a discount, although that is not a guarantee.

What is Place du Tertre known for?

The square is known for its working artists, portrait caricaturists and cafés. Caricaturists offer to draw visitors’ portraits, adding a live creative presence that sets this small Montmartre square apart from a standard collection of souvenir stalls.

After looking at the artwork or having a portrait drawn, you can stop for a drink at one of the cafés around the square. The most famous is La Mère Catherine, which the tour material identifies as the oldest café there, founded in 1793.

What is the story behind the word “bistro” at Place du Tertre?

The word “bistro” is connected to La Mère Catherine by a local legend. According to tradition, Russian Cossack soldiers were dining at the restaurant in 1812 when their food was slow to arrive.

The story says they shouted “Bistrya! Bistrya!”, a Russian word meaning “faster”. Tradition then connects that cry with the later French word “bistro”. This is presented as a legend, not a verified origin, but it gives La Mère Catherine an especially memorable place in the square’s story.

What should you look for at Place du Tertre?

Look first at the artwork being sold around the square, then notice the caricaturists working on portraits. These are the details that make the space active rather than simply historic. From there, look at the cafés, especially La Mère Catherine, whose documented history reaches back to its founding in 1793.

The Leplace route Life as an Impressionist Artist in 1880s Montmartre includes the square as stop 16 of 16. It gives you a way to encounter the place alongside an interactive Montmartre route without turning this page into a list of tour stops.

Share this page with the friend deciding what to see near Sacré Cœur, or with anyone who enjoys the history behind everyday Paris words. When you are ready to explore, start the Leplace route through Montmartre and make Place du Tertre one of your stops.