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Your journey begins at Sunda Kelapa, where Jakarta's story arrives on the tide. Long before the Dutch called it Batavia, this was the harbour of the Hindu Kingdom of Sunda, trading pepper and other goods with merchants from across Asia and the Middle East. In 1527, the port was captured by forces from Demak and renamed Jayakarta. Then, in 1619, Jan Pieterszoon Coen seized the settlement for the Dutch East India Company, or VOC, and began rebuilding it as Batavia—the Company's fortified headquarters in Asia.
As you follow the waterfront, imagine the harbour crowded with pinisi boats, VOC vessels, cargo lighters, soldiers, traders, interpreters, and enslaved people. Spices from the Moluccas, ceramics from China, textiles from India, and silver from distant markets passed through this narrow maritime gateway. At the Maritime Museum, former VOC pepper warehouses reveal the less glamorous machinery of empire: timber, rope, storage, paperwork, surveillance, and exhausting labour. Nearby, Menara Syahbandar recalls the harbour master's watch over every ship and cargo. In Batavia, even a friendly sail on the horizon could mean profit, danger, or a new order from the Company.
You then cross toward the old walled city. The Kota Intan Drawbridge evokes a time when canals and gates controlled movement, while Kali Besar exposes the contradictions of Dutch engineering. Straight waterways carried goods into the city, but they also trapped waste, encouraged disease, and turned tropical water management into a daily struggle. In 1628 and 1629, Sultan Agung of Mataram attacked Batavia, reminding the VOC that its walls were not merely decorative. They were a warning: this trading post was also a fortress.