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You begin where Portland began to hustle: at the river's edge, where muddy banks, timber wealth, and sheer ambition turned a small settlement platted in 1845 and incorporated in 1851 into a booming Northwest port. As you follow the Willamette through Old Town and the warehouse district, you step into the city's rough-and-ready nineteenth-century rise, when steamships crowded the docks, wagons rattled over planks, and fortunes floated in on lumber, wheat, and trade. This is not the postcard Portland of craft coffee and bike lanes; this is the Portland of sailors, mill owners, merchants, gamblers, dockworkers, and opportunists with wet boots and sharp elbows. At Skidmore Fountain, installed in 1888, you'll stand in a district built to serve people, horses, cargo, and commerce in equal measure. At Union Station, opened in 1896, you'll see how railroads tightened Portland's grip on inland trade, while the White Stag Block recalls the city's timber-fueled industrial muscle. The Burnside crossing tells another chapter: bridges, freight, and expansion binding east and west into one working city. And then there is the infamous vice economy—saloons, lodging houses, gambling dens, and the persistent legends of Shanghaiing that gave Portland its rakish reputation. Some tales grew taller in the retelling, naturally; waterfront cities were never allergic to exaggeration. Still, as you move through these streets, you'll feel how river trade, lumber, immigration, and vice all helped shape a city that was prosperous, chaotic, and never especially interested in being boring.